Steve Carter and I had booked a seven day birding trip to Northeast Spain with Naturetrek on the Wallcreeper and Cranes tour. We arrived at Zaragoza airport at 16:30 via London Stanstead and once we had located our tour leaders and fellow participants we headed off north towards Alquezar, located in the province of Huesca and the autonomous community of Aragon noting the following species en route.
Great Egret, Grey Heron, White Stork, Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Red-legged Partridge, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, White Wagtail, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow. Arriving at our destination at dusk we stopped above the citadel where we photographed the dramatic vista and watched the solar spectacle overhead where Jupiter, Venus and Mars all showed well on a darkening sky. We retired briefly to our very comfortable accommodation before dining at a local restaurant where the food arrived in capacious amounts and the wine flowed freely.
Day 2.
An early morning walk along the old town towards the citadel produced my first Wallcreeper which I located myself as it fed along a rock face adjacent the Collegiate church. Other species of note included Red Kite, Alpine Accentor (7), Eurasian Crag Martin (C40), Sardinian Warbler, Redwing (1) and Red-billed Chough (2). We then visited the Vero River and Bridge after breakfast where several Common Chiffchaff, a single Great Spotted Woodpecker and a pair of Cirl Bunting were noted. Our next destination was at a higher altitude, Barranco Las Gargantas where a second Wallcreeper was noted feeding along the cliff face at close quarters. We then made our way to Sierra y Canones de Guara where we had lunch before more birding. While having our picnic a wonderful pair of Common Raven displayed overhead. We later viewed a third Wallcreeper, which again I located myself although from afar, while below us on the wing were dozens of Crag Martin and several Griffon Vulture. After visiting the caves and ancient paintings we spotted a single Egyptian Vulture, at least three Firecrest, a pair of Goldcrest and at least two Crested Tit. We then retraced our earlier visits stopping again at Barranco Las Gargantas where a Holly Blue butterfly appeared briefly in the afternoon sunshine. We then returned to Alquezar noting more Griffon Vultures and Common Buzzard en route.
A full list of species observed as follows:-
Red Kite (1), Egyptian Vulture (1), Griffon Vulture (c400), Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon (2), Common Crane (c200), Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Great Spotted Woodpecker (1), Common Magpie, Red-billed Chough (2), Western Jackdaw, Carrion Crow, Common Raven (2), Crested Tit, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Common Skylark, Eurasian Crag Martin, Common Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Firecrest (3), Goldcrest (2), Wren, Dunnock, Alpine Accentor (7), Wallcreeper* (3), Spotless Starling, Common Blackbird, Redwing (1), Song Thrush, European Robin, House Sparrow, Rock Sparrow (2), Common Chaffinch, Brambling, European Goldfinch, Corn Bunting, Cirl Bunting (3).
Cave Paintings at Sierra y Canones de Guara dated to the upper Palaeolithic period (Late Stone Age).
Day 3.
An early morning start around Alquezar old town provided my first Black Redstart of the holiday, a lovely adult male. Among the Ivy clad walls dozens of Blackcap were noted as was a lovely pair of Cirl Bunting that were feeding in an adjacent garden. We then headed off towards Santa Cilia via Rio Alcanta where a single White-throated Dipper was observed. Once at Santa Cilia we made our way to the vulture feeding station where c200 Griffon Vulture waited to be fed. An adult Lammergeier briefly drifted overhead before the feeding frenzy began. It was an amazing experience to be able to sit so close to feeding vultures and hear the associated noises the birds made during the feeding process no more than an arms length away. Afterwards a total of two adult and one juvenile Lammergeier were observed, the latter bird sporting dark plumage. They eventually landed in the spot that we had previously sat only an hour or so earlier. We then had our picnic lunch while watching the birds drift around the valley effortlessly using the thermals to great effect. It was then time for us to return to our vehicles and make our way back to Alquezar stopping off briefly again at Rio Alcanta. Once back at base we regrouped before taking a memorable walk down the Vero Gorge taking in the wonderful views and noting more birds. I discovered a feeding Blue Rock Thrush at the top of the gorge and at least three Hawfinch as we descended finally reaching the River Vero below. Here another two Wallcreeper were located while overhead dozens of Crag Martin fed. I also discovered a single Alpine Accentor before it was time to return back to our accommodation.
A full list of species observed as follows:-
Red-legged Partridge (2), Red Kite, Lammergeier (3), Griffon Vulture, Northern Goshawk (1), Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Common Magpie, Red-billed Chough, Carrion Crow, Common Raven, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Long-tailed Tit, Eurasian Crag Martin, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Wren, Dunnock, Alpine Accentor, European Robin, Wallcreeper (2), Spotless Starling, Common Blackbird, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush (1), Redwing, Black Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush, White-throated Dipper, House Sparrow, Common Chaffinch, European Goldfinch, Corn Bunting, Cirl Bunting.
Lammergeier (adult) at Santa Cilia.
Griffon Vulture at Santa Cilia.
Day 4.
An early morning walk to the top of the Vero Gauge and citadel produced yet another Wallcreeper the sixth sighting of the holiday. Overhead a male Hen Harrier was briefly observed while below five nervy Rock Sparrow flirted about before finally disappearing into a hole in the rock face below the collegiate church. A rather cold looking Alpine Accentor showed briefly in the weak morning sunshine before it was time for us to head back for breakfast. We then re-packed our gear leaving Alquezar behind as we headed off to our new base at Laguna de Gallocanta via Sierra De Tramacet, Laguna de Sarinera and Los Menegros. At Sierra De Tramacet we discovered an Eagle Owl at the nest, although distant, while below in the canyon a Black Wheatear and Blue Rock Thrush gave brief views before we moved on. At the nearby village I photographed a White Stork at the nest before a single Rock Bunting was discovered in the canyon, a new life species. We then called in at Laguna de Sarinera where we lunched while viewing the lake and its inhabitants including at least half a dozen Marsh Harrier plus many wetland species. After lunch we moved on eventually reaching Los Menegros where a splendid Golden Eagle and an amazing 25 Great Bustard were observed, the latter another new life species. We then continued towards Laguna de Gallocanta arriving at dusk.
A full list of species observed as follows:-
Red-legged Partridge, Mallard, Common Teal, White Stork, Western Cattle Egret, Grey Heron, Great Cormorant, Red Kite, Griffon Vulture, Western Marsh Harrier, Hen Harrier, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Golden Eagle, Common Kestrel, Great Bustard*, Common Crane, Northern Lapwing, European Golden Plover, Common Snipe, Black-headed Gull, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Common Magpie, Red-billed Chough, Carrion Crow, Common Raven, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Calandra Lark, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark, Common Skylark, Eurasian Crag Martin, Common Chiffchaff, Zitting Cisticola, Blackcap, Dartford Warbler, Wren, Dunnock, Alpine Accentor, Wallcreeper, Spotless Starling, Common Blackbird, Song Thrush, European Robin, Black Redstart, Common Stonechat, Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, House Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, Meadow Pipit, Common Chaffinch, European Serin, European Goldfinch, Common Linnet, Rock Bunting*, Corn Bunting.
Dat 5.
An early morning visit to Laguna de Gallocanta to watch c6000 Common Cranes departing at dawn provided some fantastic views although conditions were uncomfortably cold. Dozens of Hen Harrier and Common Kestrel were also very active and a Short-eared Owl gave the briefest of views. A Wild Boar roamed along the shoreline leaving a distinct trail in the muddy margins while five Roe Deer grazed amongst the reeds. A Merlin was also seen as it buzzed overhead flushing the passerines below. We then drove along the farm track nearing the shoreline and glimpsed two Black-bellied Sandgrouse as they came in to land. Before lunch we visited the interpretive centre which concentrates on education concerning the importance of this vital wintering area for the European Common Crane. After Lunch we then followed the farm track around the opposite side of the lagoon eventually connecting briefly with three Great Bustard as they flew past. We later relocated the birds feeding in a field and managed to take a few photo’s.
A full list of species observed as follows:-
Common Shelduck, Mallard, Red Kite, Griffon Vulture, Western Marsh Harrier, Hen Harrier, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Golden Eagle, Common Kestrel, Merlin, Peregrine Falcon, Great Bustard, Common Crane, Northern Lapwing, Eurasian Curlew, Yellow-legged Gull, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Little Owl, Common Magpie, Carrion Crow, Calandra Lark, Crested Lark, Woodlark, Eurasian Skylark, Spotless Starling, Song Thrush, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, White Wagtail, Meadow Pipit, European Goldfinch, Common Linnet, Corn Bunting, Common Reed Bunting.
Day 6.
Another early morning start before dusk this time to search for Duponts Lark on land adjacent the A211 about a twenty minutes drive from our hotel, en route a Barn Owl was briefly seen as it passed the road in front of us. On arrival the outside temperature had dipped to -5 degrees Celsius making it difficult to search for the dozen or so larks heard singing. Despite my best efforts I was unable to observe any birds and by the time the sun had risen the singing birds had virtually ceased their melody. So reluctantly we returned back to our hotel for a hot beverage and breakfast. We then walked to the hills above our hotel picking up passerines including Woodlark, Cirl Bunting, Common Linnet, Goldcrest and Mistle Thrush plus at least one Griffon Vulture. Several parties of Common Crane passed overhead as they migrated north. We then lunched next to a church located on the hill aboveLaguna de Gallocanta before driving around part of the lagoon track eventually reaching one of the tower hides. From this elevated position we scoped at least eight Ruff and fifteen Dunlin. Finally we travelled along the adjacent arable land searching for Sandgrouse eventually reaching a small freshwater pond. Here four Common Pochard, two Little Grebe and at least twelve Great Cormorant were noted. Just before leaving a small party of around ten Sandgrouse passed by at speed but did not stop. We returned to the hotel early evening where a Wild Cat was observed as we pulled into the car park, despite the excited scramble as people leapt from their vehicles I did get a glimpse of the animals heavy, barred tail as it disappeared from view.
A full list of species as follows:-
Red-legged Partridge, Common Shelduck, Mallard, Common Pochard, Little Grebe, Grey Heron, Great Cormorant, Red Kite, Griffon Vulture, Western Marsh Harrier, Hen Harrier, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon, Common Crane, Eurasian Coot, Ruff, Dunlin, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Little Owl, Common Magpie, Carrion Crow, Calandra Lark, Crested Lark, Woodlark, Eurasian Skylark, Spotless Starling, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, White Wagtail, Meadow Pipit, European Goldfinch, European Greenfinch, Common Linnet, Corn Bunting, Cirl Bunting, Common Reed Bunting.
Day 7.
A morning visit to Embalse de las Torcas near Tosos produced a wonderful pair of Bonneli’s Eagle, at least three Golden Eagle and a breeding pair of Griffon Vulture observed at the nest. A few Eurasian Crag Martin danced overhead while on the reservoir Great Cormorant, Great Crested Grebe, Mallard, Common Pochard and Grey Wagtail were all noted. We then headed off to El Planeron Reserve for a brief visit before making our way back to Zaragoza Airport. Nearing the airport I spotted two Monk Parakeet briefly in flight.
A full list of species observed as follows:-
Red-legged Partridge, Common Shelduck, Mallard, Common Pochard, Great Crested Grebe, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Great Cormorant, Griffon Vulture, Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel, Bonneli’s Eagle, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Monk Parakeet, Common Magpie, Carrion Crow, Calandra Lark, Crested Lark, Woodlark, Eurasian Skylark, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, European Goldfinch, Corn Bunting.
